Step-by-step: Extension with Polygel on Forms
BRIEFLY ABOUT POLYGEL
Polygel is a UV-curing gel that is relatively thick and firm in consistency. It may well resemble a soft modeling wax. The advantage of Polygel is that it does not flow from where you put it, and you can therefore use all the time you need to build a nice shape without it flowing.
You do not need to take off Polygel . In practice, it can easily remain on the nails month after month. The nail is not alive and does not need air, as long as you ensure good nail care with nail oil regularly. Polygel should instead fulfill approx. every 3 weeks to ensure that the structure of the nail remains in balance and the nails are healthy and strong. Learn more about top-up here .
STEP-BY-STEP GUIDE FOR EXTENSION WITH POLYGEL ON TEMPLATE
1) Perform an effective prep
See the correct procedure in the step-by-step guide for prep on page 44, in the Theory book , or watch the video guide here .
2) Prepare brush
The brush is prepared by pouring some Cleaner+ into a Dappen Dish and dipping the bristles in the liquid. The brush is then lightly wiped with a lint-free wipe so that it is not completely soaked. Read more about preparing brushes on page 25 of the Theory book , or in our blog post here .
3) Apply template to five fingers
It is very important that the templates are applied correctly, in order to give the nails the most optimal conditions to get a correct structure.
1. Take a template and place it under the nail.
2. Identify how wide the nail is on the template , via the template's guidelines. Cut the template with cuticle scissors exactly where the sides of the nail end. This will allow room for the skin on the sides of the nail and ensure that the template can be shaped in the same arc as the natural nail.
3. Attach the template firmly to the finger. The template should preferably point horizontally with the finger or slightly downwards. It is incredibly important that there is no gap between the template and the nail, but that they are completely flush.
4) Apply Base Coat and cure for 60 seconds
Make sure that the Base Coat is "rubbed" well into the nail. This is done by pressing the tip of the brush into the nail plate with a pushing motion. It is important not to get too much product on the brush, as the nail should only be covered by a very thin layer. Remember to also seal the free edge. Read more about sealing the free edge on page 11 of the Theory Book , or on our blog .
Note that there will be a sticky layer in the Base Coat after curing. Sticky layer is a very thin layer of uncured product, which must ensure that the next layer has something to stick to. Sticky layer is necessary and completely normal. It must not be removed.
5) Build the nail extension and cure for 60 seconds
Polygel is a relatively solid mass, which is best shaped with a brush moistened with Cleaner+ . If the brush is not moistened with Cleaner+ , the product will stick to the brush and it will be difficult to work with. During the build-up, the brush must therefore be continuously dipped in a Dappen Dish with Cleaner+ and then lightly wiped with the Lint-Free Wipe . In addition, Polygel is best shaped by making dabbing movements instead of normal brush strokes.
1. Pick up a small bead of Polygel with a Polygel Spatula .
2. Place the pearl on the transition between the template and the edge of the nail.
3. Build the extension by moving the Polygel onto the template so that it forms the new nail extension. Make sure the newly built extension is also in contact with the natural nail.
4. Cure for 60 seconds in the UV lamp.
5. Carefully remove the templates without stressing the newly built extension.
6) Build the shape of the nail with Polygel and cure for 60 seconds
When the nail is built up, it is extremely important for e.g. the durability, to be aware that you create a correct shape with apex and strength points. Read more about correct construction from page 13 in the Theory Book or on our blog post here .
1. Pick up a small bead of Polygel with a Polygel Spatula and place it in the middle of the nail a few centimeters from the cuticle. The amount of Polygel should cover the entire nail.
2. Moisten the brush in Cleaner+ and gently dab the bead with Polygel down towards the cuticle area and around the entire edge of the cuticle. It is important not to touch the skin at any time.
3. Now dab the excess product away from the cuticle area and distribute it around the rest of the nail in a slow, dabbing motion down towards the tip of the nail. Remember to also slide the product all the way out onto the tip of the nail. Pay attention to making a correct build with apex and optimal strength points. Read more about correct construction from page 13 in the Theory book , or in our blog post here .
4. To fix the shape that has just been built, you can use the Flash Cure program (10 second glance) on the UV lamp from The Gel Collection. This program creates a surface cure that encapsulates the product and ensures that it stays where it needs to be. It is not necessary to use the Flash Cure program, but it can provide a guarantee that you will not push the nail out of shape while you continue working on the other nails.
5. When all five nails are built up, they must be thoroughly cured for 60 seconds in the UV lamp.
7) Remove dust with a Flufffri Wipe and Cleaner+
Wet a lint-free wipe with Cleaner+ and wipe the nail free of dust.
If you do not want Gel Polish color on top of your Polygel , you can skip directly to step 13.
8) File the mold to perfect the build
To perfect the shape of the nail, and to create a smooth transition to the natural nail, the shape is filed. This can e.g. done with a 100/180 grit nail file and/or with an electric nail file. When using the electric nail file, e.g. use a sand roller with grit 100 to 180 or a bit with coarseness fine to extra fine. Finish by buffing the entire surface of the nail with a 100/180 grit buffer.
It is important not to file too much on the lower arch (the underside of the nails). In this case, there is a risk of removing the seal during the transition from natural nail to product. Over-filing in this area can cause lift and poor durability. It is also important not to file too far in, so that the natural nail is visible through the product. This will mean that the product's strength point is no longer robust, and the nail will therefore very likely lift or break over time.
9) Remove dust with a Flufffri Wipe and Cleaner+
Wet a Lint Free Wipe with Cleaner+ and wipe the nail free of dust.
If you do not want Gel Polish color on top of your Builder Gel, you can skip directly to step 12.
10) Apply first coat of Gel Polish color and cure for 60 seconds
When applying Gel Polish color, it is important to apply very thin layers. Thick layers can cause wrinkles in the surface, uneven color or remain uncured. A good rule to remember is that if your Gel Polish flows into the cuticle, it is because you have applied too thick a layer.
- The color pigments in Gel Polish colors can fade over time. Therefore, the color must be mixed before use. Avoid shaking the bottle as this can create air bubbles. The best way to mix Gel Polish colors are applied by turning the bottom upside down on the bottle and placing it between two flat hands. Next, the bottle is rolled back and forth in the hands.
- Dip the brush into the bottle and wipe most of it off Gel Polish color on the inside of the neck of the bottle. Next, scrape off a small pearl Gel Polish color up from the side of the neck of the bottle.
- Place the brush in the middle of the nail and push the color down towards the cuticle. Make sure the brush is behind the color at an angle that is relatively horizontal with the nail. When the color is placed as close to the cuticle as possible (without hitting the cuticle), the color is drawn vertically down over the rest of the nail.
- Apply Gel Polish color on the tip of the nail.
- Lift the brush from the nail and now place it in the middle of the nail right up to the cuticle. Then pull the color out towards the right side and all the way down the nail. Repeat the same on the left side.
- When Gel Polish is applied to all five nails, they must cure for 60 seconds in the UV lamp.
11) Apply second coat of Gel Polish color and cure for 60 seconds
Apply using the same procedure as described in the previous step.
12) Apply Top Coat and cure for 60 seconds
Top Coat is applied using the same method as Gel Polish color. It is "No Wipe", which means that it does not have a sticky layer (a thin sticky layer) after curing. It is therefore not necessary to clean with Cleaner+ .
13) Finish with nail oil
Wash hands and apply nail oil . The oil must be applied both at the cuticle and under the nail. Read more about daily nail care on page 22 i The theory book , or read more on our blog .
