Step-by-step: Extension with Polygel on Forms
SHORT ABOUT POLYGEL
Polygel is a UV-curing gel that is relatively thick and firm in consistency. It may slightly resemble soft modeling clay. The advantage of Polygel is that it does not flow from where you have applied it, allowing you to take all the time you need to create a beautiful shape without it moving.
There is no need to remove Polygel. In practice, it can stay on the nails month after month. The nail is not alive and does not need air, as long as you ensure good nail care with cuticle oil regularly. Polygel should instead be refilled approximately every 3 weeks to ensure the structure of the nail remains balanced, and the nails stay healthy and strong. Learn more about refilling here.
STEP-BY-STEP GUIDE TO EXTENDING WITH POLYGEL USING FORMS
1) Perform an effective prep
See the correct method by watching the video guide here.
2) Prepare the brush
The brush is prepared by pouring some Cleaner+ into a Dappen Dish and dipping the bristles into the liquid. Then lightly wipe the brush with a Lint-Free Wipe so that it is not completely soaked. Read more about brush preparation on our blog post here.
3) Apply forms to five fingers
It is very important that the forms are applied correctly to give the nails the most optimal conditions for a proper build-up.
1. Take a form and place it under the nail.
2. Identify how wide the nail is on the form via the form’s guide lines. Trim the form with a cuticle scissors right where the sides of the nail end. This will make room for the skin on the sides of the nail and ensure that the form can be shaped into the same curve as the natural nail.
3. Attach the form securely to the finger. The form should preferably point horizontally with the finger or slightly downward. It is crucial that there is no gap between the form and the nail; they must align perfectly.
4) Apply Base Coat and cure for 60 seconds
Ensure that the Base Coat is well “rubbed” into the nail. This is done by pressing the brush tip into the nail plate with a pushing motion. It is important not to have too much product on the brush, as the nail should only be covered by a very thin layer. Remember also to seal the free edge. Read more about sealing the free edge on our blog.
Note that there will be a sticky layer on the Base Coat after curing. The sticky layer is a thin layer of uncured product that ensures the next layer has something to adhere to. The sticky layer is necessary and completely normal. It should not be removed.
5) Build the nail extension and cure for 60 seconds
Polygel is a relatively firm material best shaped with a brush moistened with Cleaner+. If the brush is not moistened with Cleaner+, the product will stick to the brush, and it will become difficult to work with. During the building process, the brush must be regularly dipped in a Dappen Dish with Cleaner+ and then lightly wiped with a Lint-Free Wipe. Additionally, Polygel is best shaped by making tapping movements rather than normal brush strokes.
1. Take a small bead of Polygel with a Polygel Spatula.
2. Place the bead on the transition between the form and the edge of the nail.
3. Build the extension by moving the Polygel onto the form, so it forms the new nail extension. Make sure the newly built extension also contacts the natural nail.
4. Cure for 60 seconds in the UV lamp.
5. Carefully remove the forms without stressing the newly built extension.
6) Build the nail shape with Polygel, and cure for 60 seconds
When building the nail, it is crucial for durability, among other things, to pay attention to creating the correct form with apex and stress points. Read more about proper structure on our blog post here.
1. Take a small bead of Polygel with a Polygel Spatula, and place it in the middle of the nail a few centimeters from the cuticle. The amount of Polygel should ideally cover the entire nail.
2. Moisten the brush in Cleaner+ and gently tap the bead of Polygel towards the cuticle area and along the entire cuticle edge. It is important not to touch the skin at any point.
3. Now tap the excess product away from the cuticle area and distribute it across the rest of the nail in slow, tapping motions down towards the nail tip. Also, ensure the product extends to the very tip of the nail. Be mindful to create a correct structure with apex and optimal stress points. Learn more about proper structure from page 13 of The Theory Book or on our blog post here.
4. To lock in the shape you have just created, you can use the Flash Cure program (10-second flash) on The Gel Collection’s UV lamp. This program provides surface curing, which locks the product in place, ensuring it stays put while you work on the other nails. It is not necessary to use the Flash Cure program, but it provides peace of mind that you won’t accidentally push the nail out of shape while working on the others.
5. Once all five nails are built, they must be fully cured for 60 seconds in the UV lamp.
7) Remove dust with a Lint-Free Wipe and Cleaner+
Moisten a Lint-Free Wipe with Cleaner+, and wipe the nails free of dust.
If you do not want Gel Polish color on top of your Polygel, you can skip directly to step 13.
8) File the shape to perfect the structure
To perfect the shape of the nail and create a smooth transition to the natural nail, file the shape. This can be done with a 100/180 grit nail file and/or an electric nail file. When using the electric nail file, for example, you can use a sanding band with grit 100 to 180 or a bit with fine to extra-fine coarseness. Finish by buffing the entire nail surface with a 100/180 grit buffer.
It is important not to file too much on the lower arch (underside of the nails). In such a case, you risk removing the seal at the transition from the natural nail to the product. Over-filing this area can lead to lifting and poor durability. It is also essential not to file too far in, so the natural nail becomes visible through the product. This will weaken the product’s stress point, increasing the likelihood of lifting or breaking over time.
9) Remove dust with a Lint-Free Wipe and Cleaner+
Moisten a Lint-Free Wipe with Cleaner+, and wipe the nails free of dust.
If you do not want Gel Polish color on top of your Builder Gel, you can skip directly to step 12.
10) Apply the first coat of Gel Polish color and cure for 60 seconds
When applying Gel Polish color, it is important to apply very thin layers. Thick layers can cause wrinkles on the surface, uneven color, or remain uncured. A good rule of thumb is if your Gel Polish runs into the cuticle, you have applied too thick a layer.
- The pigments in Gel Polish colors can settle over time. Therefore, the color should be mixed before use. Avoid shaking the bottle, as this can create air bubbles. The best way to mix Gel Polish colors is to turn the bottle upside down and place it between two flat hands. Then, roll the bottle back and forth in your hands.
- Dip the brush into the bottle and wipe most of the Gel Polish color off on the inside of the bottle neck. Then scrape a small bead of Gel Polish color from the side of the bottle neck.
- Place the brush in the middle of the nail and push the color down towards the cuticle. Ensure that the brush is behind the color at an angle that is relatively horizontal with the nail. Once the color is placed as close to the cuticle as possible (without touching it), pull the color vertically down the rest of the nail.
- Apply Gel Polish color to the tip of the nail.
- Lift the brush from the nail and now place it in the middle of the nail, all the way at the cuticle. Then pull the color out to the right side and all the way down along the nail. Repeat the same on the left side.
- When Gel Polish is applied to all five nails, they must be cured for 60 seconds in the UV lamp.
11) Apply the second coat of Gel Polish color and cure for 60 seconds
Apply using the same method as described in the previous step.
12) Apply Top Coat and cure for 60 seconds
Top Coat is applied using the same method as Gel Polish color. It is “No Wipe,” meaning it does not have a sticky layer (a thin tacky surface) after curing. Therefore, it is not necessary to clean with Cleaner+.
13) Finish with cuticle oil
Wash hands and apply cuticle oil. The oil should be applied both at the cuticle and under the nail. Learn more about daily nail care on our blog.
