What Is HEMA – and Why All Our Gel Polish Is 100% HEMA-Free
HEMA has become the most talked-about word in the nail world — with good reason. Here is the calm, fact-based explanation: what the substance is, why it is discussed, how to check a brand yourself — and why we have chosen to leave it out entirely.
What is HEMA?
HEMA (2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate) and di-HEMA are acrylate monomers used in many gel products because they provide strong adhesion. The problem: they are also among the most frequent causes of contact reactions with gel nails. The risk arises especially from skin contact with uncured gel — and once developed, the sensitivity is permanent. That is why the EU has chosen to regulate precisely these substances.
Our choice: 21FREE
All our products — not "most", all — are 100% free from HEMA, di-HEMA and TPO. HEMA is only part of the picture, though: our 21FREE concept leaves out a total of 21 ingredients we deliberately avoid — beyond selected allergens also hormone-disrupting and environmentally harmful substances, among others. At the same time we prioritise acrylates with large molecules and the lowest possible concentration, because large molecules have a harder time penetrating the skin barrier. Important to know: no UV-curing nail product on the market is entirely without allergy risk — but the choice of chemistry makes a real difference. Read more about our overall effort to reduce allergy risk.
How to check a brand yourself
- Find the full ingredient list (INCI) — serious brands show it for every product.
- Search for "HEMA", "di-HEMA" and "hydroxyethyl methacrylate" in the list.
- Be sceptical of "gentle" without documentation — see the other criteria in the brand guide.
Good technique still applies
Whatever the product: keep gel off skin and cuticles, always cure the full time with a lamp that matches your gel system, and if you experience redness, itching or blisters, stop using the product and see a doctor. Reactions should be taken seriously — even with gentler products.
Frequently asked questions
Is HEMA dangerous?
HEMA is among the most frequent causes of contact reactions with gel products, especially from skin contact with uncured gel. Once developed, the sensitivity is permanent — which is why many (including us) choose to leave it out.
Is HEMA-free gel polish just as durable?
Yes. Our formulas use carefully selected acrylates instead — the wear time is still 2-3 weeks with proper prep.
What is TPO?
A photoinitiator (the substance that starts the cure), which the EU has banned in nail products from 2025. All our products are also TPO-free.
Can I react to HEMA-free gel?
The risk is lower, but no UV-curing nail product is entirely without allergy risk. Use good technique, and see a doctor if you react.
No PFAS
