Step-by-step: Extension with Builder Gel on Forms
BRIEF ABOUT BUILDER GEL
Builder Gel is perfect for both lengthening and strengthening your own nails, where the nail is built from the ground up. Builder Gel is relatively liquid and must be "slid" onto the nail at a fast pace. However, it is very self-leveling and therefore flows smoothly to a smooth surface by itself. Builder Gel comes in a bucket and is applied with a separate brush.
Builder Gel does not need to be removed. In practice, it can easily remain on the nails month after month. The nail is not alive and does not need air, as long as you ensure good nail care nail oil regularly. Builder Gel should instead be filled approx. every 3 weeks to ensure that the structure of the nail remains in balance and the nails are healthy and strong. Learn more about top-up here .
STEP-BY-STEP GUIDE TO EXTENDING WITH BUILDER GEL ON TEMPLATE
1) Perform an effective prep
See the correct procedure in the step-by-step guide here .
2) Prepare brush
If using Builder Gel from a bottle, this step can be skipped.
The brush is prepared by dipping the bristles in Builder Gel. Then scrape off excess product. Read more about preparing brushes on page 25 of the Theory book , or in our blog post here .
3) Apply template to five fingers
It is very important that the templates is applied correctly, to give the nails the most optimal conditions to get a correct structure.
1. Take one template and place it under the nail.
2. Identify how wide the nail is the template , via of the template guidelines. Clip the template to with one cuticle scissors exactly where the sides of the nail end. This will make room for the skin on the sides of the nail and ensure that the template can be shaped in the same arc as the natural nail.
3. Set the template firmly on the finger. The template should preferably point horizontally with the finger or slightly downwards. It is incredibly important that there is no gap between the template and the nail, but that they align completely.
4) Apply Base Coat and cure for 60 seconds
Make sure that Base Coat "rubbed" well into the nail. This is done by pressing the tip of the brush into the nail plate with a pushing movement. It is important not to get too much product on the brush, as the nail should only be covered by a very thin layer. Remember to also seal the free edge. Read more about sealing the free edge on page 11 i The theory book , or on ours blog .
Note that there will be a sticky layer inside Base Coat after curing. Sticky layer is a very thin layer of uncured product, which must ensure that the next layer has something to stick to. Sticky layer is necessary and completely normal. It must not be removed.
5) Build the nail extension and cure for 60 seconds
Builder Gel is best built up by applying the product in a gliding motion that flows the product around, rather than brushing the product on with normal brush strokes.
1. Pick up a small bead of Builder Gel on the brush.
2. Place the bead on the transition between the template and the edge of the nail.
3. Build the extension by moving the Builder Gel onto the template so that it forms the new nail extension. Make sure the newly built extension is also in contact with the natural nail. To ensure that the extension does not slip or run, you can use the Flash Cure program (10 second glance) on the UV lamp. This program creates a surface cure that encapsulates the jelly and ensures that it stays where it needs to be. Use the Flash Cure program between building up each individual nail.
4. Cure all five nails for 60 seconds in the UV lamp.
5. Remove carefully the templates without burdening the newly built extension.
ATTENTION!
If the shape of the new extension does not match the desired final shape, it is a good idea to file it before proceeding to step 6. This is done by wiping the sticky layer off with Cleaner+, file the shape with e.g. 180 side of a 100/180 grit nail file, buff the entire surface of the nail rough with the 180 side of a 100/180 grit buffer and finally remove dust with a Lint Free Wipe and Cleaner+.
6) Build the shape of the nail with Builder Gel and cure for 60 seconds
When the nail is built up, it is extremely important for e.g. the durability, to be aware that you create a correct shape with apex and strength points. Read more about correct construction from page 13 i The theory book or on our blog post here .
ATTENTION!
If you filed the new extension in step 5, the nail will be rough and dry in this step. To make the Builder Gel flow more easily during the build-up, you can start by brushing a very thin layer of Builder Gel over the entire nail. This will act as a 'slip layer' and thus help your Builder Gel to flow out to the areas where the 'slip layer' has been applied. Slip layer must not be hardened.
1. Pick up a small bead of Builder Gel on the brush. The amount of Builder Gel should cover the entire nail.
2. Place the pearl in the middle of the nail a few millimeters from the cuticle. Gently press the bead down towards the cuticle area and around the entire edge of the cuticle. It is important not to touch the skin at any time.
3. Now pull the excess product away from the cuticle area and distribute it around the rest of the nail in a slow and sliding movement down towards the tip of the nail. Remember to also slide the product all the way out onto the tip of the nail.
4. Turn the nail upside down so that the product can pull down towards the center and form an apex - i.e. the nail's strength point. If the apex and the correct nail shape do not float into position by themselves, the shape can be helped into place with a brush. Read more about correct construction from page 13.
5. To ensure that the shape that has just been built up does not slide down into the cuticle, you can use the Flash Cure program (10 second glance) on the UV lamp.
6. When all five nails are built up, they must be thoroughly cured for 60 seconds in the UV lamp. As the Builder Gel hardens, some will experience a burning sensation in the nails. This is completely normal and is due to the molecules in the jelly contracting. In these cases, you can instead harden the nails in the UV lamp's Low Heat Mode (90 seconds), which gradually increases the effectiveness of the UV light and thus reduces the burning sensation.
7) Wipe off the sticky layer with Cleaner+
Wet a lint-free wipe with Cleaner+, and wipe the nail free of the sticky layer.
8) File the mold to perfect the build
To perfect the shape of the nail, and to create a smooth transition to the natural nail, the shape is filed. This can e.g. done with a 100/180 grit nail file and/or with an electric nail file. When using the electric nail file, e.g. use a sand roller with grit 100 to 180 or a bit with coarseness fine to extra fine. Finish by buffing the entire surface of the nail with a 100/180 grit buffer.
It is important not to file too much on the lower arch (the underside of the nails). In this case, there is a risk of removing the seal during the transition from natural nail to product. Over-filing in this area can cause lift and poor durability. It is also important not to file too far in, so that the natural nail is visible through the product. This will mean that the product's strength point is no longer robust, and the nail will therefore very likely lift or break over time.
9) Remove dust with a Flufffri Wipe and Cleaner+
Wet a Lint Free Wipe with Cleaner+ and wipe the nail free of dust.
If you do not want Gel Polish color on top of your Builder Gel, you can skip directly to step 12.
10) Apply first coat of Gel Polish color and cure for 60 seconds
When applying Gel Polish color, it is important to apply very thin layers. Thick layers can cause wrinkles in the surface, uneven color or remain uncured. A good rule to remember is that if equal Gel Polish flows into the cuticle, it is because you have applied too thick a layer.
- The color pigments in Gel Polish colors can fade over time. Therefore, the color must be mixed before use. Avoid shaking the bottle as this can create air bubbles. The best way to mix Gel Polish colors are applied by turning the bottom upside down on the bottle and placing it between two flat hands. Next, the bottle is rolled back and forth in the hands.
- Dip the brush into the bottle and wipe most of it off Gel Polish color on the inside of the neck of the bottle. Next, scrape off a small pearl Gel Polish color up from the side of the neck of the bottle.
- Place the brush in the middle of the nail and push the color down towards the cuticle. Make sure the brush is behind the color at an angle that is relatively horizontal with the nail. When the color is placed as close to the cuticle as possible (without hitting the cuticle), the color is drawn vertically down the rest of the nail.
- Apply Gel Polish color on the tip of the nail.
- Lift the brush from the nail and now place it in the middle of the nail right up to the cuticle. Then draw the color out towards the right side and all the way down the nail. Repeat the same on the left side.
- When Gel Polish is applied to all five nails, they must cure for 60 seconds in the UV lamp.
11) Apply second coat of Gel Polish color and cure for 60 seconds
Apply using the same procedure as described in the previous step.
12) Apply Top Coat and cure for 60 seconds
Top Coat applied according to the same method as Gel Polish color. It is "No Wipe", which means that it does not have a sticky layer (a thin sticky layer) after curing. It is therefore not necessary to clean with it Cleaner+ .
13) Finish with nail oil
Wash hands and apply nail oil . The oil must be applied both at the cuticle and under the nail. Read more about daily nail care on page 22 i The theory book , or read more on our blog .
