Step-by-step: Extension with Builder Gel on Forms
ABOUT BUILDER GEL
Builder Gel is perfect for both nail extensions and strengthening natural nails, as the nail is built from scratch. Builder Gel is relatively fluid and should be "glided" onto the nail at a quick pace. However, it is very self-leveling, which means it spreads evenly into a smooth surface by itself. Builder Gel comes in a pot and is applied with a separate brush.
Builder Gel does not need to be removed. It can stay on the nails for months at a time. Since the nail is not living and does not require air, good nail care with cuticle oil is enough. Builder Gel should be refilled approximately every three weeks to ensure the nail structure remains balanced and the nails stay healthy and strong. Learn more about refills here.
STEP-BY-STEP GUIDE TO EXTENDING WITH BUILDER GEL USING FORMS
1) Perform a thorough prep
See the correct process in the step-by-step guide here.
2) Prepare the brush
If you are using Builder Gel from a bottle, this step can be skipped.
Prepare the brush by dipping the bristles into Builder Gel. Then, scrape off any excess product. Learn more about brush preparation in our blog post here.
3) Apply forms to all five fingers
It is essential that the forms are applied correctly to ensure the nails are given optimal conditions for proper structure.
1. Take a form and place it under the nail.
2. Identify how wide the nail is on the form using the guide lines. Trim the form with a cuticle scissors right where the sides of the nail end. This will give space for the skin on the sides and ensure the form follows the same curve as the natural nail.
3. Secure the form tightly on the finger. The form should ideally point straight out from the finger or slightly downward. It is crucial that there is no gap between the form and the nail but that they align perfectly.
4) Apply Base Coat, and cure for 60 seconds
Make sure to press the Base Coat into the nail using the tip of the brush. This is done by pressing the brush into the nail plate with a pushing motion. It’s important not to have too much product on the brush, as the nail should only be covered by a very thin layer. Also, remember to seal the free edge. Learn more about sealing the free edge on our blog.
Note that there will be a sticky layer left after curing the Base Coat. This is a thin layer of uncured product designed to help the next layer adhere. The sticky layer is essential and completely normal. It must not be removed.
5) Build the nail extension, and cure for 60 seconds
Builder Gel is best applied in a gliding motion that spreads the product around rather than brushing it on like normal brush strokes.
1. Pick up a small bead of Builder Gel with your brush.
2. Place the bead at the junction between the form and the edge of the natural nail.
3. Build the extension by moving the Builder Gel across the form, creating the new extension. Ensure the new extension is also in contact with the natural nail. To prevent the extension from sliding, you can use the Flash Cure mode (10-second flash) on your UV lamp. This provides surface curing, locking the gel in place. Use Flash Cure between building each nail.
4. Fully cure all five nails for 60 seconds in the UV lamp.
5. Carefully remove the forms without putting stress on the newly built extension.
NOTE!
If the shape of the new extension does not match your desired final shape, it is a good idea to file it before proceeding to step 6. This is done by wiping the sticky layer with Cleaner+, filing the shape with, for example, the 180-side of a 100/180 grit file, buffing the nail’s surface with the 180-side of a 100/180 grit buffer, and finally removing dust with a Lint-Free Wipe and Cleaner+.
6) Build the nail structure with Builder Gel, and cure for 60 seconds
When building the nail structure, it is crucial to ensure the correct shape, including the apex and stress points, for durability. Read more about the correct structure in our blog post here.
NOTE!
If you filed the new extension in step 5, the nail in this step will be rough and dry. To make Builder Gel flow more smoothly during the build, you can start by brushing a thin layer of Builder Gel over the entire nail. This will serve as a 'slip layer,' helping the Builder Gel flow to areas where the slip layer has been applied. The slip layer does not need to be cured.
1. Pick up a small bead of Builder Gel with your brush. The amount of Builder Gel should be enough to cover the entire nail.
2. Place the bead in the middle of the nail a few millimeters from the cuticle. Gently press the bead down toward the cuticle area and around the cuticle line. Be careful not to touch the skin.
3. Now pull the excess product away from the cuticle area, distributing it over the rest of the nail in a slow, gliding motion down to the tip. Be sure to glide the product out to the tip of the nail.
4. Turn the nail upside down, allowing the product to pull toward the center, creating an apex (the nail’s strength point). If the apex and proper nail shape don’t settle into place on their own, they can be adjusted with a brush. Read more about proper nail structure on page 13.
5. To ensure the structure you have just built doesn't flow into the cuticle, you can use the Flash Cure mode (10-second flash) on the UV lamp.
6. Once all five nails are built, they should be fully cured for 60 seconds in the UV lamp. Some may feel a burning sensation in their nails as the Builder Gel cures. This is entirely normal and occurs because the gel’s molecules contract. In these cases, you can use the UV lamp's Low Heat Mode (90 seconds), which gradually increases the UV light’s intensity and reduces the burning sensation.
7) Wipe off the sticky layer with Cleaner+
Moisten a Lint-Free Wipe with Cleaner+ and wipe the nail to remove the sticky layer.
8) File the shape to perfect the structure
To perfect the nail’s shape and create a smooth transition to the natural nail, file the shape. This can be done with a 100/180 grit nail file and/or an electric file. When using the electric file, a sanding band with a grit of 100 to 180 or a bit with fine to extra fine grit can be used. Finish by buffing the entire nail surface with a 100/180 grit buffer.
It's important not to over-file the lower arch (underside of the nail), as this risks removing the seal between the natural nail and the product. Over-filing in this area can lead to lifting and poor durability. It is also important not to file too deeply, exposing the natural nail through the product. This will weaken the strength point, making the nail prone to lifting or breaking over time.
9) Remove dust with a Lint-Free Wipe and Cleaner+
Moisten a Lint-Free Wipe with Cleaner+ and wipe the nail to remove any dust.
If you do not want Gel Polish color on top of your Builder Gel, you can skip directly to step 12.
10) Apply the first layer of Gel Polish color and cure for 60 seconds
When applying Gel Polish color, it is important to apply very thin layers. Thick layers can cause wrinkling, uneven color, or uncured spots. A good rule of thumb is that if your Gel Polish flows into the cuticle, the layer is too thick.
- The pigments in Gel Polish colors can settle at the bottom over time. Therefore, the color needs to be mixed before use. Avoid shaking the bottle, as this can create air bubbles. The best way to mix Gel Polish colors is to turn the bottle upside down and roll it between your hands.
- Dip the brush into the bottle and wipe most of the Gel Polish color off on the inside of the bottle's neck. Then pick up a small bead of Gel Polish color from the side of the bottle’s neck.
- Place the brush in the middle of the nail and push the color down toward the cuticle. Make sure the brush is behind the color at an angle relatively flat with the nail. Once the color is as close to the cuticle as possible (without touching it), pull the color vertically down across the rest of the nail.
- Apply Gel Polish color to the tip of the nail.
- Lift the brush off the nail and place it again at the top of the nail, near the cuticle. Then pull the color out toward the right side and all the way down the nail. Repeat the same on the left side.
- Once Gel Polish has been applied to all five nails, cure them for 60 seconds in the UV lamp.
11) Apply the second layer of Gel Polish color and cure for 60 seconds
Apply using the same method as described in the previous step.
12) Apply Top Coat and cure for 60 seconds
Top Coat is applied using the same method as Gel Polish color. It is “No Wipe,” meaning it doesn’t have a sticky layer after curing. Therefore, there’s no need to cleanse with Cleaner+.
13) Finish with cuticle oil
Wash your hands and apply cuticle oil. The oil should be applied to both the cuticle area and under the nail. Learn more about daily nail care on our blog.
