Step-by-step: Reinforcement with Builder Gel
ABOUT BUILDER GEL
Builder Gel is perfect for both extensions and strengthening natural nails, as the nail is built from scratch. Builder Gel is relatively fluid and should be "glided" onto the nail at a quick pace. However, it is very self-leveling and, therefore, flows evenly into a smooth surface on its own. Builder Gel comes in a pot and is applied with a separate brush.
Builder Gel does not need to be removed. It can practically stay on the nails month after month. Since the nail is not alive and does not need air, as long as you ensure good nail care with cuticle oil regularly, the nails will remain healthy. Builder Gel should instead be refilled approximately every three weeks to ensure the nail structure remains balanced and the nails stay strong. Learn more about refills here.
STEP-BY-STEP GUIDE TO STRENGTHENING WITH BUILDER GEL
1) Prepare the brush
If you are using Builder Gel from a bottle, this step can be skipped.
Prepare the brush by dipping the bristles into Builder Gel. Then scrape off any excess product. Learn more about brush preparation in our blog post here.
2) Perform an effective prep
See the correct process in the step-by-step guide here.
3) Apply Base Coat, and cure for 60 seconds
Make sure to thoroughly press the Base Coat into the nail using a pushing motion with the brush tip. It’s important not to have too much product on the brush, as the nail should only be covered with a very thin layer. Remember to also seal the free edge. Learn more about sealing the free edge on our blog.
Note that there will be a sticky layer after curing the Base Coat. This is a thin layer of uncured product designed to help the next layer adhere. The sticky layer is essential and completely normal. It must not be removed.
4) Strengthen the nail with Builder Gel, and cure for 60 seconds
When building the nail, it is crucial for durability to ensure the correct shape with an apex and strength points. Read more about proper structure on page 13.
1. Pick up a small bead of Builder Gel with your brush. The amount of Builder Gel should be enough to cover the entire nail.
2. Place the bead in the middle of the nail a few millimeters from the cuticle. Gently press the bead down toward the cuticle area and around the cuticle line. It’s important not to touch the skin at any point.
3. Now pull the excess product away from the cuticle area and distribute it over the rest of the nail in a slow, gliding motion down to the tip of the nail. Be sure to glide the product out to the tip of the nail as well.
4. Turn the nail upside down, allowing the product to pull toward the center and form an apex — the nail’s strength point. If the apex and proper nail shape don’t settle into place on their own, they can be helped into position with a brush. Read more about proper structure on page 13.
5. To ensure the structure just built doesn’t flow into the cuticle, use the Flash Cure mode (10-second flash) on your UV lamp.
6. Once all five nails are built, they should be fully cured for 60 seconds in the UV lamp. Some may feel a burning sensation in their nails as the Builder Gel cures. This is completely normal and happens because the molecules in the gel contract. In such cases, you can use the UV lamp’s Low Heat Mode (90 seconds), which gradually increases the intensity of the UV light and reduces the burning sensation.
5) Wipe off the sticky layer with Cleaner+
Moisten a Lint-Free Wipe with Cleaner+, and wipe the nail to remove the sticky layer.
6) File the shape to perfect the structure
To perfect the nail’s shape and create a smooth transition to the natural nail, file the shape. This can be done with a 100/180 grit nail file and/or an electric file. When using the electric file, a sanding band with grit of 100 to 180 or a bit with a fine to extra fine grit can be used. Finish by buffing the entire nail surface with a 100/180 grit buffer.
It is important not to over-file the lower arch (underside of the nails), as this risks removing the seal between the natural nail and the product. Over-filing in this area can lead to lifting and poor durability. It is also important not to file too deeply, exposing the natural nail through the product. This weakens the strength point, and the nail will likely lift or break over time.
7) Remove dust with a Lint-Free Wipe and Cleaner+
Moisten a Lint-Free Wipe with Cleaner+, and wipe the nail free of dust.
If you do not want Gel Polish color on top of your Builder Gel, you can skip directly to step 10.
8) Apply the first layer of Gel Polish color and cure for 60 seconds
When applying Gel Polish color, it’s important to apply very thin layers. Thick layers can cause wrinkles in the surface, uneven color, or leave uncured spots. A good rule of thumb is that if your Gel Polish flows into the cuticle, the layer is too thick.
- The pigments in Gel Polish colors can settle at the bottom over time. Therefore, the color needs to be mixed before use. Avoid shaking the bottle, as this can create air bubbles. The best way to mix Gel Polish colors is to turn the bottle upside down and roll it between your hands.
- Dip the brush into the bottle and wipe most of the Gel Polish color off on the inside of the bottle’s neck. Then pick up a small bead of Gel Polish color from the side of the bottle’s neck.
- Place the brush in the middle of the nail, and push the color down toward the cuticle. Make sure the brush is behind the color at a relatively flat angle with the nail. Once the color is as close to the cuticle as possible (without touching it), pull the color vertically down across the rest of the nail.
- Apply Gel Polish color to the tip of the nail.
- Lift the brush off the nail and place it again at the top of the nail, near the cuticle. Then pull the color out toward the right side and all the way down the nail. Repeat the same on the left side.
- Once Gel Polish has been applied to all five nails, cure them for 60 seconds in the UV lamp.
9) Apply the second layer of Gel Polish color and cure for 60 seconds
Apply using the same method as described in the previous step.
10) Apply Top Coat and cure for 60 seconds
Top Coat is applied using the same method as Gel Polish color. It is “No Wipe,” meaning it doesn’t have a sticky layer after curing. Therefore, there’s no need to cleanse with Cleaner+.
11) Finish with cuticle oil
Wash your hands, and apply cuticle oil. The oil should be applied both to the cuticle area and under the nail. Learn more about daily nail care on our blog.
