Step-by-step: Extension with Builder Gel on Classic Tips
ABOUT BUILDER GEL
Builder Gel is perfect for both extending and strengthening your own nails, where the nail is built from scratch. Builder Gel is relatively fluid and should be "glided" onto the nail at a quick pace. However, it is very self-leveling and therefore smoothly spreads out to a smooth surface by itself. Builder Gel comes in a jar and is applied with a separate brush.
There is no need to remove Builder Gel. It can practically stay on the nails month after month. Nails are not living and do not need air, as long as proper nail care is ensured with cuticle oil regularly. Instead, Builder Gel should be filled approximately every 3 weeks to ensure the nail structure remains balanced and the nails stay healthy and strong. Learn more about refilling here.
STEP-BY-STEP GUIDE TO EXTENDING WITH BUILDER GEL ON CLASSIC TIPS
1) Find the right size tips
It's important that tips fit perfectly to the nails and neither press on nor pull on the natural nail shape. A tip that is too large will extend beyond the nail's edges and/or have a wider c-curve (arch) than the natural nail. A tip that is too small will not cover the entire nail and/or have a narrower c-curve than the natural nail.
The perfect tip fits exactly from side to side without being too wide or narrow in the c-curve and therefore neither pulls on nor presses on the nail. If you cannot find a tip that fits perfectly with both the sides and c-curve, you can choose a tip that is initially too large but fits with the c-curve. From there, the tip can be filed down to also fit perfectly with the sides of the nail.
2) Perform an effective prep
See the correct procedure in the step-by-step guide for prep.
3) Glue the tips on with Tip Glue
Wipe the tips clean inside with a Lint-Free Wipe soaked with Cleaner+. Then glue the tips to the tip of the nails with Tip Glue, and let them air dry for 30-60 seconds.
4) Adjust length, shape, and transition
Before the nail can be built, the tip's length, shape, and transition to the natural nail need to be perfected.
1. Clip the tip's length with a Tip Cutter.
2. File the tips to the desired shape with the 180 grit side of a 100/180 grit file.
3. File the transition of the tip with the 180 grit side of a 100/180 grit file and/or with an electric nail file. When using the electric nail file, you can use a sanding band with grit 180 to 320. The transition from tip to natural nail should appear as invisible/natural as possible. Be careful not to file into the natural nail.
4. Wipe with Cleaner+ to ensure that all dirt and dust are removed.
5) Apply Hard Base Coat and cure for 60 seconds
Make sure the Base Coat is well "rubbed" into the nail. This is done by pressing the brush's tip into the nail plate with a pushing motion. It is important not to have too much product on the brush, as the nail only needs to be covered with a very thin layer. Remember also to seal the free edge. Read more about sealing the free edge on our blog.
Note that there will be a sticky layer in the Base Coat after curing. The sticky layer is a very thin layer of uncured product that ensures the next layer has something to adhere to. The sticky layer is necessary and completely normal. It must not be removed.
6) Prepare the brush
If using Builder Gel from a bottle, this step can be skipped.
The brush is prepared by dipping the bristles in Builder Gel. Then scrape off the excess product. Read more about brush preparation in our blog post here.
7) Build the nail with Builder Gel and cure for 60 seconds
1. Take a small bead of Builder Gel on the brush. The amount of Builder Gel should cover the entire nail.
2. Place the bead in the center of the nail a few millimeters from the cuticle. Gently press the bead down towards the cuticle area and around the entire edge of the cuticle. It is important not to touch the skin at any point.
3. Now pull the excess product away from the cuticle area and distribute it around the rest of the nail in a slow, gliding motion down towards the tip of the nail. Remember to glide the product all the way to the tip of the nail.
4. Turn the nail upside down so the product can pull down towards the middle and form an apex - the strength point of the nail. If the apex and the correct nail shape do not flow into position by themselves, the shape can be guided into place with a brush. Read more about correct structure from page 13.
5. To ensure the shape that has just been built does not flow into the cuticle, you can use the Flash Cure program (10-second flash) on the UV lamp.
6. When all five nails are built, they should be fully cured for 60 seconds in the UV lamp. When Builder Gel cures, some may experience a burning sensation in the nails. This is completely normal and occurs because the molecules in the gel contract. In such cases, the nails can instead be fully cured in the UV lamp's Low Heat Mode (90 seconds), which gradually increases the UV light's effectiveness and thereby reduces the burning sensation.
7) Wipe the sticky layer with Cleaner+
Moisten a Lint-Free Wipe with Cleaner+, and wipe the nail free of the sticky layer (the sticky residue).
8) File the shape to perfect the structure
To perfect the nail shape and create a smooth transition to the natural nail, file the shape. This can be done, for example, with a 100/180 grit nail file and/or with an electric nail file. When using the electric nail file, you can use a sanding band with grit 100 to 180 or a bit with coarseness from fine to extra fine. Finish by buffing the entire surface of the nail with a 100/180 grit buffer.
It is important not to file too much on the lower arch (undersides of the nails). In doing so, you risk removing the seal at the transition from natural nail to product. Overfiling in this area can lead to lifting and poor durability. It is also important not to file too deep, so the natural nail becomes visible through the product. This would cause the product's strength point to no longer be robust, and the nail will therefore likely lift or break over time.
9) Remove dust with a Lint-Free Wipe and Cleaner+
Moisten a Lint-Free Wipe with Cleaner+, and wipe the nail free of dust.
If you do not want Gel Polish color on top of your Builder Gel, you can skip directly to step 12.
10) Apply the first coat of Gel Polish color and cure for 60 seconds
When applying Gel Polish-color, it is important to apply very thin layers. Thick layers can cause wrinkles on the surface, uneven color, or remain uncured. A good rule of thumb is that if your Gel Polish flows into the cuticle, it is because you have applied too thick of a layer.
- Color pigments in Gel Polish colors can settle at the bottom over time. Therefore, the color should be mixed before use. Avoid shaking the bottle, as this can create air bubbles. The best way to mix Gel Polish colors is by turning the bottle upside down and placing it between two flat hands. Then roll the bottle back and forth in your hands.
- Dip the brush into the bottle and wipe most of the Gel Polish color off on the inside of the bottle's neck. Then scrape up a small bead of Gel Polish color from the side of the bottle's neck.
- Place the brush in the middle of the nail and push the color down towards the cuticle. Make sure the brush is behind the color at an angle that is relatively horizontal to the nail. When the color is placed as close to the cuticle as possible (without touching the cuticle), pull the color vertically down over the rest of the nail.
- Apply Gel Polish color to the tip of the nail.
- Lift the brush from the nail and place it in the middle of the nail at the top near the cuticle. Then pull the color to the right side and all the way down along the nail. Repeat the same on the left side.
- When Gel Polish is applied to all five nails, cure for 60 seconds in the UV lamp.
11) Apply the second coat of Gel Polish color and cure for 60 seconds
Apply using the same method as described in the previous step.
12) Apply Top Coat and cure for 60 seconds
Top Coat is applied using the same method as Gel Polish color. It is "No Wipe," which means it does not have a sticky layer (a thin sticky layer) after curing. Therefore, it is not necessary to clean with Cleaner+.
13) Finish with cuticle oil
Wash hands, and apply cuticle oil. The oil should be applied both at the cuticle and under the nail. Read more about daily nail care on our blog.
