Step-by-step: Extension with Builder Gel on Classic Tips
BRIEF ABOUT BUILDER GEL
Builder Gel is perfect for both lengthening and strengthening your own nails, where the nail is built from the ground up. Builder Gel is relatively liquid and must be "slid" onto the nail at a fast pace. It is, however, very self-leveling and therefore flows smoothly to a smooth surface by itself. Builder Gel comes in a bucket and is applied with a separate brush.
Builder Gel does not need to be removed. In practice, it can easily remain on the nails month after month. The nail is not alive and does not need air, as long as you ensure good nail care nail oil regularly. Builder Gel should instead be filled approx. every 3 weeks to ensure that the structure of the nail remains in balance and the nails are healthy and strong. Learn more about top-up here .
STEP-BY-STEP GUIDE TO EXTENDING WITH BUILDER GEL ON CLASSIC TIPPERS
1) Find the right size tipper
It is important to the punters fits the nails perfectly and neither presses nor pulls on the natural nail shape. A tip that is too large will extend beyond the edges of the nail and/or have a wider c-curve (arch) than the natural nail. A tip that is too small will not cover the entire nail and/or have a narrower c-curve than the natural nail.
The perfect tip fits exactly from side to side without having a c-curve that is too wide or too narrow and will therefore neither pull in nor press on the nail. If you cannot find a tip that fits perfectly with both sides and c-curve, you can choose a tip that is basically too big, but which fits with the c-curve. From there, the tip can be filed so that it also fits perfectly with the sides of the nail.
2) Perform an effective prep
See the correct procedure in the step-by-step guide for preparation
3) Glue the tips on with Tip Glue
Dry the punters clean inside with a Lint-free Wipe bet with Cleaner+ . Then glue the tips on the tip of the nails with Tip Glue and let them air dry for 30-60 seconds.
4) Customize length, shape and transition
Before the nail can be built up, must tips length and shape as well as the transition to the natural nail are perfected.
1. Cut the length of the tip with a Tip Cutter .
2. File the tips into the desired shape with the 180 grit side of one 100/180 grit file .
3. File the transition of the tip with a 180 grit side of a 100/180 grit file and/or with a electric nail file . When using the electric nail file, e.g. a sand roller with grit is used 180 to 320 . The transition from tip to natural nail should look as invisible/natural as possible. Be careful not to file into the natural nail.
4. Wipe with Cleaner+ to ensure that all dirt and dust is removed.
5) Apply Hard Base Coat and cure for 60 seconds
Make sure that Base Coat "rubbed" well into the nail. This is done by pressing the tip of the brush into the nail plate with a pushing motion. It is important not to get too much product on the brush, as the nail should only be covered by a very thin layer. Remember to also seal the free edge. Read more about sealing the free edge on page 11 i The theory book , or on ours blog .
Note that there will be a sticky layer inside Base Coat after curing. Sticky layer is a very thin layer of uncured product, which must ensure that the next layer has something to stick to. Sticky layer is necessary and completely normal. It must not be removed.
6) Prepare brush
If using Builder Gel from a bottle, this step can be skipped.
The brush is prepared by dipping the bristles in Builder Gel. Then scrape off excess product. Read more about preparing brushes on page 25 of the Theory book , or in our blog post here .
7) Build the nail with Builder Gel and cure for 60 seconds
1. Pick up a small bead of Builder Gel on the brush. The amount of Builder Gel should cover the entire nail.
2. Place the pearl in the middle of the nail a few millimeters from the cuticle. Gently press the bead down towards the cuticle area and around the entire edge of the cuticle. It is important not to touch the skin at any time.
3. Now pull the excess product away from the cuticle area and distribute it around the rest of the nail in a slow and sliding movement down towards the tip of the nail. Remember to also slide the product all the way out onto the tip of the nail.
4. Turn the nail upside down so that the product can pull down towards the center and form an apex - i.e. the nail's strength point. If the apex and the correct nail shape do not float into position by themselves, the shape can be helped into place with a brush. Read more about correct construction from page 13.
5. To ensure that the shape that has just been built up does not slide down into the cuticle, you can use the Flash Cure program (10 second glance) on the UV lamp.
6. When all five nails are built up, they must be thoroughly cured for 60 seconds in the UV lamp. As the Builder Gel hardens, some will experience a burning sensation in the nails. This is completely normal and is due to the molecules in the jelly contracting. In these cases, you can instead harden the nails in the UV lamp's Low Heat Mode (90 seconds), which gradually increases the effectiveness of the UV light and thus reduces the burning sensation.
7) Wipe off the sticky layer with Cleaner+
Wet a lint-free wipe with Cleaner+, and wipe the nail free of the sticky layer.
8) File the mold to perfect the build
To perfect the shape of the nail, and to create a smooth transition to the natural nail, the shape is filed. This can e.g. done with a 100/180 grit nail file and/or with an electric nail file. When using the electric nail file, e.g. use a sand roller with grit 100 to 180 or a bit with coarseness fine to extra fine. Finish by buffing the entire surface of the nail with a 100/180 grit buffer.
It is important not to file too much on the lower arch (the underside of the nails). In this case, there is a risk of removing the seal during the transition from natural nail to product. Over-filing in this area can cause lift and poor durability. It is also important not to file too far in, so that the natural nail is visible through the product. This will mean that the product's strength point is no longer robust, and the nail will therefore very likely lift or break over time.
9) Remove dust with a Flufffri Wipe and Cleaner+
Wet a Lint Free Wipe with Cleaner+ and wipe the nail free of dust.
If you do not want Gel Polish color on top of your Builder Gel, you can skip directly to step 12.
10) Apply first coat of Gel Polish color and cure for 60 seconds
When applying Gel Polish color, it is important to apply very thin layers. Thick layers can cause wrinkles in the surface, uneven color or remain uncured. A good rule to remember is that if equal Gel Polish flows into the cuticle, it is because you have applied too thick a layer.
- The color pigments in Gel Polish colors can fade over time. Therefore, the color must be mixed before use. Avoid shaking the bottle as this can create air bubbles. The best way to mix Gel Polish colors are applied by turning the bottom upside down on the bottle and placing it between two flat hands. Next, the bottle is rolled back and forth in the hands.
- Dip the brush into the bottle and wipe most of it off Gel Polish color on the inside of the neck of the bottle. Next, scrape off a small pearl Gel Polish color up from the side of the neck of the bottle.
- Place the brush in the middle of the nail and push the color down towards the cuticle. Make sure the brush is behind the color at an angle that is relatively horizontal with the nail. When the color is placed as close to the cuticle as possible (without hitting the cuticle), the color is drawn vertically down the rest of the nail.
- Apply Gel Polish color on the tip of the nail.
- Lift the brush from the nail and now place it in the middle of the nail right up to the cuticle. Then draw the color out towards the right side and all the way down the nail. Repeat the same on the left side.
- When Gel Polish is applied to all five nails, they must cure for 60 seconds in the UV lamp.
11) Apply second coat of Gel Polish color and cure for 60 seconds
Apply using the same procedure as described in the previous step.
12) Apply Top Coat and cure for 60 seconds
Top Coat applied according to the same method as Gel Polish color. It is "No Wipe", which means that it does not have a sticky layer (a thin sticky layer) after curing. It is therefore not necessary to clean with it Cleaner+ .
13) Finish with nail oil
Wash hands and apply nail oil . The oil must be applied both at the cuticle and under the nail. Read more about daily nail care on page 22 i The theory book , or read more on our blog .
