Step-by-step: The Perfect Prep
BRIEF ABOUT PREP
Prep is an abbreviation for the English word “preparation,” which means “forberedelse” in Danish. In the nail world, prep means preparing the nail for a nail product.
During prep, all dead skin cells, cuticles, and natural oils are removed from the nails so they are entirely clean and dry for the products to be applied. If prep is not done correctly, the nail products will undoubtedly lift, break, or even fall off entirely because the product cannot adhere properly to the nail. Therefore, prep is one of the most important disciplines in nail art. In fact, you could go as far as to say that it is essential for good durability. The best advice is to be thorough when performing prep.
STEP-BY-STEP GUIDE FOR REFILLING
1) Wash hands
2) File length and shape
File the desired length and shape of the nail with the 220 side of a 180/220 grit wooden file. If the nail needs to be extended with tips, the nail should be cut down to about 1-2 mm free edge.
3) Remove cuticles
Push the cuticle back with a cuticle pusher. Use the opposite end of the cuticle pusher to scrape away the invisible cuticle. If necessary, trim excess cuticle with a cuticle clipper.
For an even more effective prep, you can also use an electric nail file after the cuticles have been pushed back. The advantage of using an electric nail file for the cuticle is that it allows better access to the sides and more efficiently and safely removes the invisible cuticle. Prep with an electric nail file can therefore increase durability. For prepping the cuticle with an electric nail file, use a Cuticle Bit, specifically designed for cuticles.
4) Create a roughness on the nail surface
Buff the nail with a 100/180 grit buffer. For normal nail types, the 100 grit side can be used. For thin nails, the 180 grit side is recommended. Be sure to get into the sides and around the cuticle area. It’s also a good idea to buff the tip of the nail and the underside of the nail, so the sealing of the free edge adheres to a prepped surface as well. This is especially important if you tend to experience lifting at the tip of the nails.
For an even more effective prep, you can also use an electric nail file to buff the nail. The advantage of using an electric nail file is that it files more efficiently and faster than a regular nail file. A 320 grit sanding band is appropriate, and keep the rotations low.
If you have experienced that products don’t hold well on your nails, you can create a slightly rougher surface grid (a deeper roughness in the top layer of the nail, which the product can better adhere to). This can be done by lightly filing over the nail with the 180 grit side of a 100/180 grit nail file instead of using a buffer. However, it is very important to file carefully and only create a very superficial roughness.
5) Clean with Cleaner+
Clean the nails free from oil and dust using a lint-free wipe soaked with Cleaner+. Remember to clean under the nail and get into the sides. You can use a cuticle pusher or a rosewood stick to push the lint-free wipe into the cuticle area and sides. You can also use a Micro Wipe Stick soaked with Cleaner+.
After wiping the nails with Cleaner+, they should appear matte and dry. If there are still shiny areas on the nail, these should be buffed again, and the cleaning with Cleaner+ should be repeated.
6) Apply Prep&Prime
Apply a very thin layer of Prep&Prime to the entire nail and let it air dry for 60 seconds. Prep&Prime ensures disinfection and dehydration.
7) Continue the nail treatment with the chosen product
IMPORTANT
A common beginner mistake when prepping is accidentally touching the nail (or possibly a tool or a tip that is meant to go on the nail) after the prep has been done. The slightest amount of oil or dirt from the skin will settle on the nail and cause lifting of any type of product. Therefore, make sure never to touch the nail or anything else that is going on the nail once the prep has started.
