Step-by-step: Extension with Polygel on Classic Tips

SHORT ABOUT POLYGEL

Polygel is a UV-curing gel that is relatively thick and firm in consistency. It may slightly resemble soft modeling clay. The advantage of Polygel is that it does not flow from where you have applied it, allowing you to take all the time you need to create a beautiful shape without it moving.

There is no need to remove Polygel. In practice, it can stay on the nails month after month. The nail is not alive and does not need air as long as you ensure good nail care with cuticle oil regularly. Polygel should instead be refilled approximately every 3 weeks to ensure the structure of the nail remains balanced, and the nails stay healthy and strong. Learn more about refilling here.

STEP-BY-STEP GUIDE TO EXTENDING WITH POLYGEL ON CLASSIC TIPS

1) Find the correct size of tips
It is important that the tips fit perfectly on the nails and neither press on nor pull at the natural nail shape. A tip that is too large will extend beyond the edges of the nail and/or have a wider C-curve than the natural nail. A tip that is too small will not cover the entire nail and/or have a narrower C-curve than the natural nail.

The perfect tip fits exactly from side to side without being too wide or narrow in its C-curve and will therefore neither pull nor press on the nail. If you cannot find a tip that fits perfectly with both the sides and the C-curve, you can choose a tip that is slightly too large but fits the C-curve. The tip can then be filed to fit the sides of the nail perfectly.

2) Perform an effective prep
See the correct method in the step-by-step guide for prep.

3) Glue the tips on with Tip Glue
Clean the inside of the tips with a Lint-Free Wipe soaked in Cleaner+. Then glue the tips to the nail tips using Tip Glue and let them air-dry for 30-60 seconds.

4) Adjust length, shape, and transition
Before the nail can be built up, the tip’s length and shape, as well as the transition to the natural nail, must be perfected.

1. Clip the tip's length with a Tip Cutter.

2. File the tips into the desired shape with the 180 grit side of a 100/180 grit file.

3. File the tip’s transition with the 180 grit side of a 100/180 grit file and/or with an electric nail file. When using the electric file, for example, use a sanding band with grit 180 to 320. The transition from tip to natural nail should be as seamless/natural as possible. Be careful not to file the natural nail.

4. Wipe with Cleaner+ to ensure all dirt and dust are removed.

5) Apply Base Coat and cure for 60 seconds
Ensure that the Base Coat is well “rubbed” into the nail. This is done by pressing the brush tip into the nail plate with a pushing motion. It is important not to have too much product on the brush, as the nail should only be covered by a very thin layer. Remember also to seal the free edge. Read more about sealing the free edge on our blog.

Note that there will be a sticky layer on the Base Coat after curing. The sticky layer is a thin layer of uncured product that ensures the next layer has something to adhere to. The sticky layer is necessary and completely normal. It should not be removed.

6) Prepare the brush
The brush is prepared by pouring some Cleaner+ into a Dappen Dish and dipping the bristles into the liquid. Then lightly wipe the brush with a Lint-Free Wipe so that it is not completely soaked. Read more about brush preparation on our blog.

7) Build the nail with Polygel and cure for 60 seconds
When building the nail, it is crucial for durability, among other things, to pay attention to creating the correct form with apex and stress points. Learn more about proper structure on our blog.

Polygel is a relatively firm material best shaped with a brush moistened with Cleaner+. If the brush is not moistened with Cleaner+, the product will stick to the brush and become difficult to work with. During the building process, the brush must be regularly dipped in a Dappen Dish with Cleaner+ and then lightly wiped with a Lint-Free Wipe. Additionally, Polygel is best shaped by making tapping movements rather than normal brush strokes.

1. Take a small bead of Polygel with a Polygel Spatula and place it in the middle of the nail a few centimeters from the cuticle. The amount of Polygel should ideally cover the entire nail.

2. Moisten the brush in Cleaner+ and gently tap the bead of Polygel towards the cuticle area and along the entire cuticle edge. It is important not to touch the skin at any point.

3. Now tap the excess product away from the cuticle area and distribute it across the rest of the nail in slow, tapping motions down towards the nail tip. Also, ensure the product extends to the very tip of the nail. Be mindful to create a correct structure with apex and optimal stress points. Learn more about proper structure on our blog.

4. To lock in the shape you have just created, you can use the Flash Cure program (10-second flash) on The Gel Collection’s UV lamp. This program provides surface curing, which locks the product in place, ensuring it stays put while you work on the other nails. It is not necessary to use the Flash Cure program, but it provides peace of mind that you won’t accidentally push the nail out of shape while working on the others.

5. Once all five nails are built, they must be fully cured for 60 seconds in the UV lamp.

8) Wipe off the sticky layer with Cleaner+
Moisten a Lint-Free Wipe with Cleaner+ and wipe the nails free of the sticky layer (the tacky surface).

9) Shape the nails to perfect the structure
To perfect the shape of the nails and create a smooth transition to the natural nail, file the nails. This can be done with a 100/180 grit nail file and/or with an electric nail file. When using the electric nail file, for example, you can use a sanding band with grit 100 or 180 or a bit with fine to extra fine coarseness. Finish by buffing the entire nail surface with a 100/180 grit buffer.

It is important not to file too much on the lower arch (underside of the nails), as this can remove the seal at the transition from the natural nail to the product. Over-filing in this area can lead to lifting and poor durability. It is also crucial not to file too deeply, exposing the natural nail through the product, which will weaken the product’s stress point, increasing the likelihood of lifting or breaking over time.

10) Remove dust with a Lint-Free Wipe and Cleaner+
Moisten a Lint-Free Wipe with Cleaner+ and wipe the nails free of dust.

If you do not want to apply Gel Polish color on top of your Polygel, you can skip directly to step 13.

11) Apply the first coat of Gel Polish color and cure for 60 seconds
When applying Gel Polish color, it is important to apply very thin layers. Thick layers can cause wrinkles on the surface, uneven color, or remain uncured. A good rule of thumb is if your Gel Polish runs into the cuticle, you have applied too thick a layer.

12) Apply the second coat of Gel Polish color and cure for 60 seconds

13) Apply Top Coat and cure for 60 seconds
Top Coat is applied using the same method as Gel Polish color. It is “No Wipe,” meaning it does not have a sticky layer (a thin tacky surface) after curing. Therefore, it is not necessary to clean with Cleaner+.

14) Finish with cuticle oil
Wash hands and apply cuticle oil. The oil should be applied both at the cuticle and under the nail. Learn more about daily nail care on our blog.